Escape to Jeju: Hiking Mt. Hallasan and savouring local flavours
Mt. Hallasan has long been on my bucket list, so I decided to seize the moment and spontaneously book a flight to tick it off my list! Here’s my Jeju travel guide, perfect for your next trip.
Hiking Mt. Hallasan. All images: Thuy Bui for Cherry Chu Magazine.
Mount Hallasan (한라산), the tallest peak in South Korea, offers an unforgettable hiking experience with its diverse trails and stunning landscapes.
I started my adventure on the Gwaneumsa (관음사) trail, known for its breathtaking views, before descending via the Seongpanak (성판악) trail. In under 7 hours, I was able to fully immerse myself in the natural beauty and unique flora of this remarkable mountain. Whether you're seeking a challenging ascent or a leisurely hike, Hallasan has something for every outdoor enthusiast!
Here is everything you need you to know about hiking Mt. Hallasan:
Hiking Mt. Hallasan
Making a reservation
You can book your reservation here.
Starting from the first day of each month, you can make reservations through the end of the following month. For example, on August 1st, you can book dates from August 1st to September 30th.
After booking, you will receive an email or text with a QR code to scan at the trail entrance. Don’t forget to bring your ID.
Please note that there is a penalty for no-shows, so if you change your mind, be sure to cancel your reservation.
Which trail to pick
The two trails that reach the summit are Gwaneumsa (관음사) or Seongpanak (성판악).
Gwaneumsa is a short and steep 8.7 km trail, offering breathtaking scenery that makes the effort to reach it worthwhile. In contrast, Seongpanak is longer at 9.7 km, and its gentler incline makes this an easier and quicker option for hikers.
Choice of trails on Mt. Hallasan.
Gwaneumsa Trail
Gwaneumsa – Dongneung Peak:
8.7 km, 4 – 5 hours one way
Seongpanak Trail
Seongpanak – Dongneung Peak:
9.7 km, 3 – 4.5 hours one way
On average, it takes 8–10 hours to complete these trails.
Hallsan Access Times & Shelter Cut-Off Times
You will be asked to pick an entry time slot upon reservation:
Hallasan Trail Opening Times
Spring and Autumn: 5:30 a.m.
Summer: 5:00 a.m.
Winter: 6:00 a.m.
Hallasan Shelter cut-off times
Gwaneumsa trail: Samgakbong Shelter
Seongpanak trail: Jindallaebat Shelter
The park authority has set strict cut-off times at these shelter points to ensure that hikers safely complete the trail before the sun sets. The times differ from season to season:
Spring (Mar – Apr) and Autumn (Sep – Oct): 12:30 p.m.
Summer (May – Aug): 1:00 p.m.
Winter (Nov – Feb): 12:00 p.m.
Each shelter has toilets and resting areas, though there are no facilities available for purchasing water or snacks.
There are also no bins anywhere, so please make sure to take your rubbish with you.
Summit Certificate
Don’t forget to claim your certificate at the end of your hike — it only costs 1000 won.
Once you exit, you will see signs directing you to the certificate machines which have instructions available in both Korean and English. If you have a Hiking Passport, you can collect the Hallasan stamp as well. Unfortunately, I didn’t have one, so I simply stamped the back of my certificate instead.
Summit certificate received after completing the hike.
After the hike
After a hike, enjoying a meal with makgeolli (unrefined rice wine) is a cherished tradition among Koreans. While it's often paired with Korean pancakes, during my visit to Jeju, I wanted to explore more of the island's local specialities.
Enjoying a bottle of Jeju Makgeolli.
Opseo Ye Restaurant
I headed to a local spot close to the Jeju City Hall. Here is everything I ate and recommend.
Gulfweed Soup (몸국 / Momguk)
A standout dish in Jeju cuisine is Gulfweed soup, a beloved traditional favourite and my personal favourite.
This comforting soup is made by adding soaked gulfweed to a savory pork broth, featuring tender pieces of pork and intestines. Known locally as “mom,” gulfweed lends the soup a distinctive, springy texture. Its roots trace back to banquet traditions, where boiled pork slices were served alongside intestines, buckwheat powder, and gulfweed.
To enhance the flavour, some variations incorporate aged kimchi for a tangy kick or buckwheat powder to thicken the broth. This dish is a true speciality that can only be savoured in Jeju.
Delicious Gulfweed Soup in Jeju-do.
Pork Shoulder Bone Stew (접짝뼈국 / Jeopjjakppyeoguk)
Another traditional dish from Jeju is Pork Shoulder Bone Stew, where thick cuts of pork and bones are slowly simmered with radish and buckwheat flour in a rich, flavorful broth.
While cows were highly valued on the island, black pigs were plentiful and featured prominently in local recipes. This stew is creamier and more savoury than ox bone soup, with meat so tender it practically melts in your mouth. For an added burst of flavour, finish it off with a sprinkle of chopped green onions and pepper.
Flavourful Pork Shoulder Bone Stew.
Steamed Pork Slices (돔베고기 / Dombegogi)
Lastly, the unique dish of Steamed Pork Slices showcases freshly steamed black pork served directly on a wooden cutting board, sliced to order.
The pork is light and flavourful, having had much of the fat rendered away. The meat is exceptionally tender, while the remaining fat offers a delightful chewiness, making each bite a satisfying experience.
Tender Steamed Pork Slices.
Address: Opseo Ye Restaurant, 12 Donggosan-ro, Jeju, South Korea (옵서예식당 제주특별자치도 제주시 동고산로 12)
Opening Times:
Monday to Friday: 7 a.m. – 8 p.m.
Weekend: Closed
Dongmun Market
After lunch, I went back to the Guesthouse to freshen up and take a nap, before heading out for dinner at Dongmun Market.
Dongmun Traditional Market is Jeju Island’s largest and oldest permanent market. It combines a street market, night market, traditional market, and seafood market all in one, making it a popular spot for tourists with plenty of places to eat and shop.
Established after Korea’s liberation in August 1945 and relocated after a fire in 1954, the market offers a diverse range of goods, including vegetables, fruits, seafood, medicinal herbs, clothing, and gift shops.
Address: Dongmun Market, 9 Dongmun-ro 4-gil, Jeju-si, Jeju-do (동문재래시장 제주특별자치도 제주시 동문로4길 9)
Opening times: Daily from 8 a.m. – 9 p.m.
Abebe Bakery Jeju
After dinner, I headed to the infamous doughnut shop, Abebe Bakery, located next to Gate 12 of Jeju City’s Dongmun Market. It has become a favourite among locals and tourists by using locally sourced ingredients, which has helped elevate the island's dessert scene.
In June 2023, Abebe Bakery expanded to Seoul, opening a branch at Gwangjang Market.
Delicious donut from Abebe Bakery, showing the flavours of Jeju.
Each doughnut at Abebe Bakery Seoul is infused with Jeju’s rich culture and flavours. Here are some must-try selections that I enjoyed:
Omegi Soboro Donut: This doughnut features Omegi tteok, a traditional Jeju sticky rice cake, paired with sweet red bean paste. The chewy rice cake and soft bread create a delightful contrast in textures.
Udo Peanut Cream Doughnuts: Named after the nearby island known for its peanuts, these doughnuts are filled with rich peanut cream, offering a nutty indulgence that pairs perfectly with a glass of milk.
Hallabong Cream Bread: Made with Jeju’s famous Hallabong mandarin, this doughnut is filled with a refreshing citrus cream, making it an ideal summer treat, but good all year round!
I really wanted to try the Omegi Mugwort Cream Bread but it was sold out when I went, so I’ll save that for next time!
Address: Abebe Bakery, 4 Dongmun-ro 6-gil, Jeju-si, Jeju-do (아베베베이커리 제주점, 제주특별자치도 제주시 동문로6길 4)
Opening times: Daily from 10 a.m. – 9 p.m.
Intagram: bakery_abebe
Antoinette Cafe & Bistro
And lastly, before leaving for the airport, I wanted to see the ocean, so I headed to Antoinette Cafe & Bistro.
Hot latte with Camellia Flower Bread from Antoinette Cafe and Bistro.
I enjoyed a hot latte alongside Camellia Flower Bread (동백꽃빵 / Dongbaekkkotppang), all while taking in a stunning ocean view. This traditional Korean steamed bun is shaped like a camellia flower, made with soft, fluffy dough and often filled with sweet red bean paste or other delicious fillings. Renowned for its beautiful presentation, it’s a popular snack or dessert, especially in Jeju where camellia flowers flourish.
I was also fortunate to witness the Sea Women (해녀) of Jeju, typically found on the island's east coast in Seongsan-ri.
Address: Antoinette Cafe & Bistro, 671 Seohaean-ro, Yongdam 2-dong, Jeju-si, Jeju-do (안토와네트 카페 & 비스트로, 제주특별자치도 제주시 서해안로 671, 용담2동)
Opening times: Daily from 8 a.m. – 9 p.m.
Instagram: jeju_antoinette
So, if you're seeking an adventurous short getaway, this itinerary is ideal for you.
Best of luck on your hike up Mt. Hallasan and don’t forget to pack a cup of noodles to enjoy while soaking in the breathtaking views at the top.
Let me know which doughnut flavour you went for!
Edited by Ciara Carson.
