The best kept secrets for Korean ‘glass skin’
Here’s an in-depth look at how to achieve Korea’s famous ‘glass skin’.
IVE’s Wonyoung is a prime example of ‘glass skin’. Image: IVE_twt on X.
When it comes to K-beauty, the internet is full of amazing advice for where to shop and what viral products to get your hands on. A lot of the time the advice can be overwhelming and deeply confusing, so let’s take a deeper dive into these steps to help you find an easy way to create a routine that works best for you.
What are the steps to achieving ‘glass skin’?
Cleansers (which form two steps)
Exfoliators
Toners
Essences
Serums/ampoules
Masks
Eyecare
Moisturisers
Sun cream/sleep masks.
The famed 10-step routine is all the rage right now, and most steps in this routine play an essential part in helping to repair the skin barrier — which is the main focus to achieve that glass skin aesthetic. 10 steps may not be entirely necessary, so learning what ingredients help where and the purpose of each product will help you decide how to adjust to a routine that benefits your skin best.
Cleansers
Oil-based cleansers
The HARUHARU WONDER Black Rice Moisture Deep Cleansing Oil is a good product to start with if you need a deep cleanse (especially if you use makeup often). It contains 3 separate natural oils that are gentle to the skin as natural oils avoid irritation.
Oil-based cleansers are great at getting deep into your pores and helping to break up excess sebum and other dirt that could be stuck in there.
Haruharu Wonder Black Rice Moisture Deep Cleansing Oil, Amazon UK.
Water-based cleansers
A water-based cleanser is always a good all-round cleanser to keep in your skincare routine. It is especially needed after oil cleansing to help make sure there are no excess oils left behind.
While oil-based cleansers are good for helping to melt dirt deep in your pores, water-based cleansers contain the surfactants needed to push that dirt off your skin and ensure it is washed away. Round Lab has a great option for this with their Birch Juice Moisturising Cleanser.
Birch Moisturizing Cleanser, round lab.
Milk cleansers
Skin care clinics commonly use cleansing milks as a go to cleanser for many reasons. Not only does it help to protect your moisture barrier, but it is also great for balancing your oil and water levels.
For people who suffer with particularly oily or dry skin this can be a great addition. DE:MAF All Day Glow Creamy Milk Cleanser is packed with some of the best ingredients for glass skin like ceramides and broccoli extract which acts as a natural antioxidant.
All Day Glow Creamy Milk Cleanser, Amazon US.
Exfoliators
While physical exfoliators were once the most commonly used product in the West, we have slowly seen a shift to chemical exfoliators. Now, many Western products focus on highly concentrated active ingredients, such as glycolic acid, to help remove dead skin.
Korean skincare uses many similar ingredients but also incorporates others to help counteract the drying properties of these ingredients. Numbuzin no.5 vitamin-niacinamide concentrated pads are a good example as, alongside the niacinamide, it contains a large amount of panthenol. This is a key ingredient for moisturising and repairing skin and plays a big part in helping you reach your glass skin goal.
numbuzin No.5+ Vitamin-Niacinamide Concentrated Pad, numbuzin.
Toners
The importance of a toner in a skincare routine is often overlooked. Toners are more important for the skin's PH balance than you would think. After using deep cleansers and other products with stronger acids to remove dirt, the outcome can be quite debilitating and cause dryness. When left untreated, this can amplify your skin concerns even more.
Products like the TIRTIR Milk Skin Toner (as recommended by Stray Kids’ Han Jisung) can help to rectify this. Containing both hyaluronic acid and chamomile extract, this product ensures that your skin remains hydrated.
Tirtir Milk Skin Toner, Amazon UK.
Essences
Choosing an essence can be confusing as each essence serves a different purpose. The MIXSOON Galactomyces Ferment Essence is a good product if you are unsure of which skin concerns to target.
It is made up of just two ingredients, butylene glycoland its star ingredient Galactomyces. The main purpose of this ingredient is to help minimise pores and reduce inflammation. This is commonly used in Korean skincare as it ensures the skin barrier is thoroughly strengthened.
mixsoon Galactomyces Ferment Essence, mixsoon.
Serums and ampoules
There are also a wide variety of serums to choose from. An ingredient commonly used in serums is panthenol. Panthenol is our saving grace and seems to be a rising star in Korean skincare. Soothing and moisturising are the main purposes of panthenol.
The Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum: Green Tea + Panthenol is a great find for this with its combination of green tea and 5% panthenol which provides a cooling sensation when applied to the skin.
Calming Serum : Green tea + Panthenol, beauty of joseon.
Masks
While not imperative to an everyday skincare routine, masks can be a great addition for rejuvenation. Even a weekly treatment can make a world of difference.
The popularity of these has exploded in the East, and now you can find examples of almost every idol and actor using a sheet mask. The MARY & MAY Hyaluronic Panthenol Hydra Mask contains both hyaluronic acid and panthenol, but it is also paired with allantoin, which is in the top 3 ingredients needed to repair the skin barrier. Allantoin is used in many products across the market for healing scrapes, cuts and burns, so it is no surprise that it also heals the skin barrier.
Mary&May Hyaluronic Panthenol Hydra Mask, Mary & May.
Eye care
There is conflicting advice everywhere regarding eye care. With the number of different products promoted it can be hard to decide what’s best for you. For example, retinol eye treatments, while popular, can cause long term damage without proper aftercare.
Some aestheticians don’t regard eye cream as a necessary step while others do. For this step simplicity is key, use something like the HEIMISH Matcha Biome Hydrogel Eye Patch — an effective cocktail of matcha and other herb and flower extracts that help to retain moisture and fortify your skin barrier.
Matcha Biome Hydrogel Eye Patch, heimish.
Moisturiser
This should never be skipped in your routine. The importance of moisturiser is due to the amount of glycerin it contains. This layer of glycerin helps to form a final barrier on your skin to lock in all the good stuff you have previously applied and protect your skin from any natural dirt during the day.
The iUNIK Centella Calming Gel Cream is perfect for a gentle skin routine. With this product’s main focus being tea tree leaf extract, you will have antibacterial properties to help with any acne related issues. Tea tree leaf extract also isn’t as strong as pure tea tree oil, so it is unlikely to cause as much irritation as similar products containing it.
[iUNIK] Centella Calming Gel Cream, iUNIK.
Sun protection
Sun protection is non-negotiable. Just because you aren’t going out today doesn’t mean you shouldn’t apply sunscreen. It’s a common misconception that you only need sunscreen if it’s hot or if you are going to be out in the sun for extended periods. Ultimately, this advice is not true.
Lifetime exposure to sunlight causes damage that builds up over time. While you may not see the effects, sun damage creeps in slowly and by the time you realise it, the damage is already done. Preventative treatment is the only solution.
DR CEURACLE 5a Control No Sebum Sun Lotion SPF50+ PA++++ has all the ingredients you need to help finish off your glass skin routine. The vitamin E helps to nourish your skin and the silica helps to control excess sebum and oils that your skin naturally produces.
Dr.ceuracle 5 Alpha Control No Sebum Sun Lotion SPF50+ PA++++, Amazon UK.
The Bottom Line
While striving to maintain healthy skin is important, keep in mind that everyone’s skin varies in so many ways. Comparing your skin to other people's skin can be quite disheartening when the results do not meet your expectations.
Understanding that the outward appearance of shiny, supple skin comes from the condition of your skin barrier is only step one. Investing some time into learning which ingredients work best to heal and repair damage caused over time will provide better results than hopping on to the latest trend and overloading your skin with a cocktail of active ingredients.
One wrong product can take months of the right product to counteract the effects, so tread carefully. Consider an appointment with a dermatologist or an aesthetician as they can provide you with insight into what skin concerns need tackling and how best to encourage healthy growth. This way you can build a routine that works for you and your skin type and start experiencing the vitrification of your skin.
Edited by Ciara Carson.
